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11 blemish-busting skincare for adult acne
Whether you're prone to adult acne or have sudden breakouts, here are our go-to products to restore clarity.
If you're prone to adult acne, rest assured that you're not alone, and that there are various ways to manage the issue.
Firstly, it's worth knowing that the causes of spots are extensive, from hormonal changes and genetics to stress and the wearing of face coverings (a phenomenon otherwise known as maskne).
"The warm environment created under a mask is an optimal breeding ground for bacteria," explains consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible Dr Anjali Mahto. "And anything that irritates hair follicles, such as the constant rubbing of fabric, can cause spots to form." If this sounds familar, she recommends targeted spot treatments rather than blemish-reducing face washes, which can dry out the entire face. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) toners will also sweep away dead cells and are kinder on mature complexions as they have hydrating properties too.
Choosing the right skincare formula is key, agrees dermatologist Dr. Stefanie Williams. With over 20 years experience treating patients with adult acne, she's seen a rise in the condition - in part due to a booming skincare market. "Anti-ageing products which are not specially formulated for acne-prone skin can also aggravate your breakouts," she says.
Dr. Stefanie recommends incorporating retinoids into your routine to simultaneously treat fine lines and prevent new blemishes, and tossing out products that are rich in oils and silicone derivatives. Go for a lighter moisturiser - either gel textures or a lotion rather than a thick cream - and layer on a hydrating hyaluronic serum first if skin feels particularly parched. "Changing your skincare can make a huge difference; some people won't even need prescription creams,"she says.
Ahead, our go-to products for managing acne flare-ups and breakouts. If you don't see a difference within a couple of months, it's worth speaking to a board-certified dermatologist (check out our go-to online derms here) to explore treatment options.
The Inkey List Succinic Acid Blemish Treatment
This little tube is packed with known acne-fighting ingredients salicylic acid and sulfur, while hyaluronic acid, squalane and glycerin keep dryness at bay.
Beauty intern Katie Withington says "it calmed my surface spots, which were really inflamed, and made them feel less angry and congested."
The slight green tint tones down any redness too, and works well under makeup when applied as a thin layer.
Pimple patches (made popular by Korean beauty brands) now come in all shapes, colours and sizes, from transparent circles to fun designs such as these stars by Starface.
But however cute they seem, there's nothing gimmicky about them. These stickers are made with hydrocolloid, a type of breathable dressing used on superficial wounds. As pimple patches, they do the work of flattening blemishes while drawing out liquid from whiteheads or pustular zits.
"I've tried so many pimple patches, and while they all do a similar job, Starface is still a favourite," says beauty writer Medina Azaldin. "These are so thin, they grip firmly on the skin and shrink any surface spots overnight. I also like that you can just buy refills and keep the cute case."
If you find face coverings irritate your pimple, these will also act as a barrier against the friction and keeps you from picking at spots.
Scientia's spot paste is kind to fragile complexions thanks to the addition of soothing calamine, while bentonite clay draws out impurities and salicylic acid calms redness and swelling. By morning, surface zits are minimised and deep blemishes feel less sore and irritated.
Use it as the last step in your skincare routine, applying directly on the affected area once your moisturiser has fully absorbed. Or, dab a bit of toner on area to get rid of any oils before applying the treatment.
Vichy Normaderm S.O.S Anti-Blemish Sulphur Paste
This targeted treatment dries out angry pustular blemishes using a powerful blend of glycolic acid, sulphur and niacinamide. It takes down redness overnight, and works especially well on whiteheads and spots that have come to a head. For oily and combination skin types, the matching gel cleanser is excellent at maintaining skin clarity and brightness.
Don't be fooled by the fun gen-z packaging: this lightweight serum means business, taking a 360 degree approach to treating acneic complexions.
It contains salicylic acid to eradicate and prevent new spots, zinc to control oil production, and vitamin C to brighten any post-blemish scarring. The addition of soothing ingredients such as centella asiatica and hydrating hyaluronic acid makes it a good choice for sensitive and dehydrated skin types too.
For combination and oily skin types looking for a speedy blemish SOS, this is it. The straightforward ingredients list features exfoliating salicylic acid, sulphur to absorb excess oil, and zinc oxide, known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. It's a potent treatment that works quickly, so those with sensitive skin should exercise caution.
It's not the most joyful product (the paste smells strongly of sulphur), but it zaps away zits in record time, and is a useful little jar to have in your arsenal when a spot rears its head.
Congested skin types will benefit from this potent serum, says beauty director Eve Cameron. The blend of fulvic, lactic and salicylic acid works extra hard to give clogged pores a deep clean, and helps to bring under-the-skin bumps to the surface.
Apply directly on areas prone to excess sebum and blemishes to rebalance and maintain clarity. However, it does contains a high percentage of actives and is not recommended for fragile and sensitive complexions.
If the constant friction from face coverings is causing breakouts or perioral dermatitis (an inflammatory rash that appears in the form of scaly red or dry patches and pimple-like bumps), Dr. Stefanie Williams recommends switching to lighter moisturisers, gentle cleansers, and incorporating healing and anti-bacterial hypochlorious solutions such as this one by The Light Salon.
It's a go-to for beauty director Eve Cameron, who spritzes both her skin and the inside of her face covering with this handy spray, as it has anti-microbial properties.
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
This salicylic acid treatment has a stellar reputation within the acne community for its ability to tackle stubborn spots without further irritating the complexion.
"This is a thoughtfully formulated exfoliating toner; the texture is silky and generally leaves my skin looking better after one application," says beauty editor Gillian Davies who describes her skin as feeling "fresher, clearer and cleaner" after using.
If, like Gillian, you're prone to sensitivity, this is a great option as the formula is padded with soothing green tea extracts.
Congested complexions will love this treatment by popular K-beauty brand, CosRX. Not only does it bring spots to a head and speed up the healing process, it also takes care of the leftover scarring, soothes redness and strengthen the weakened skin barrier using a combination of niacinamide, propolis and centella asiatica extracts.
This gel cleanser by Dr. Stefanie Williams is an investment, but if you're looking for a formula that considers both ageing and acne concerns, do give it a go. A little goes a long way here to create a gentle lather.
It contains high levels of BHAs to thoroughly clean the pores, antioxidants to protect and soothing ingredients to ensure skin stays balanced and happy.
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