Cate Blanchett was one of the best-dressed stars at this year’s Oscars, wearing a striking blue top from the Louis Vuitton archives. The 53-year-old actress is known for her sustainable approach to red-carpet fashion, often re-purposing the same outfits again and again.
We don’t all have Cate’s access to vintage haute couture, but many of us are joining her in embracing pre-loved style. According to GlobalData, the UK’s fashion resale market is worth £5.3 billion and is expected to grow nearly 70% by 2026, spurred on by sustainability concerns, the rising cost of living and technological advances that allow resale apps to thrive.
And it isn’t just young women driving this trend – research by US luxury resale site TheRealReal shows that, in the past year, vintage purchases increased across every generation.
Lynnette Hecker is the owner of online store Lovely’s Vintage Emporium, and says that most of her customers at vintage markets are in their forties, fifties and sixties. “Older women want the quality, the variability, and something they can keep wearing over and over, and classic styles can often be more flattering,” she says.
Anne-Marie Curtis, founder and editor of sustainable fashion title The Calendar Magazine, agrees, saying: “I absolutely think that older women are embracing vintage and rental fashion. Why would you buy a poorly made, environmentally questionable copy of an original design, when you can find the real thing? Plus there’s the feel-good factor of knowing you’re doing your bit for the planet.”
But what’s the difference between pre-loved, second-hand, vintage and retro? “Pre-loved or second-hand just means that you didn't buy it from completely new, whereas retro imitates a vintage style,” says Lynnette. “Generally, we say that something over 20 years old is vintage and over 100 years old is antique. Some vintage has never been worn before, and that's called deadstock. I once sourced some amazing 1970s maxi skirts that still had all the labels.”
Look out for the classics, says Lynnette: “Nobody reinvents the wheel in fashion. There's always a navy blazer, a pussy-bow blouse, a shirt dress, a belted mac, and those items will be in your wardrobe all your life.”
“There’s a whole host of more grown-up, luxury-driven vintage platforms now,” says Anne-Marie. “Many offer a trusted verification process, meaning you can find genuine pieces that have built-in value. That said, I’ve also found some brilliant items on eBay, which is great if you know what you are looking for.”
We spoke to five women who are shunning the high street for second-hand treasures…
“My outfit gave me confidence at my daughter’s wedding”
64-year-old Helen Garlick from Devon is the author of No Place To Lie.
“For my eldest daughter's wedding, I wore a cream silk vintage dress I bought from Etsy. I love the fact that another woman has worn and loved it before me. It was very comfortable, and I needed something that would give me confidence, as I was walking my daughter down the aisle and giving a mother-of-the-bride’s speech.
“For my niece's wedding last year, I found a blue linen dress the day before in a second-hand shop, and it was just £4.50. I had so many compliments on it, even from the barman, which is lovely when you’re in your sixties!”
“My rented dress got so many comments”
Rebecca Gibbions, 45, is the owner of Last Night I Dreamt, a jewellery boutique in Southwell, Nottinghamshire.
“I find I’m doing less frivolous high-street spending these days and trying to be more considered in my buying, renting and repurposing. I love renting a dress for a special occasion. I went to the UK Jewellery Awards last year and I wanted a dress from The Vampire’s Wife, but I didn't feel I could justify spending a lot of money on a dress I might wear once or twice. So I looked up the label on rental platform Hurr Collective and found my size. I absolutely adored wearing it and so many people commented on it.”
“You’re not going to see someone wearing the same dress as you”
53-year-old Susan Widlake owns Mill House Millinery in Saffron Walden, Essex.
“I usually find second-hand clothes at charity shops, and I also look online for bargains. I used to have a lovely high-street dress, and I got a bit big for it. But then I found it on a second-hand site in exactly the same print, but bigger. And I once met a customer who was wearing a dress with cheetahs on it – I absolutely loved it, so I set up searches online and it took me three years to find the dress for myself!
“I’d describe my style as quirky but smart. I bought this second-hand dress with playing cards on it from eBay – as soon as I saw it, I thought ‘I’ve got to have that!’. What I really like about second-hand is you're not going to walk in somewhere and find someone wearing exactly the same dress as you.”
“I like the quality of older clothes”
Carole Railton, in her 70s, is a body language expert from London.
“I really like the quality of older clothes; they’re often a lot better than fast fashion and sometimes you can find things that are quite valuable. I've got a bold style, I like big jewellery, I don’t like fussy things. I often alter my clothes as I’m 5”8, and women used to be smaller than that, so I’ll add an extra band to a skirt to make it longer. The only problem is that cleaning can be difficult – look for things with a washing label so you can check the material.”
“Vintage clothes keep their value”
Nikki Spencer, 62, from South East London, runs the disco night Haven’t Stopped Dancing Yet.
“In the photo I’m wearing a 1980s batwing dress. I buy vintage disco clothes to wear at my club night, but I also buy a lot of my day-to-day clothes from second-hand shops – I’ve become a bit of a blouse fiend!
“I always visit charity shops when I’m out and about. This weekend, I'm going walking in Wales and there’s a vintage shop in the town I’m visiting. I like to try things on in person because if something says it's a size 16, the chances are it's more like a 10 to 12. I like that you're using what’s out there already, rather than creating more new things. I'll wear something for a couple of years and then I'll pass it on to somebody else.”
Best fashion rental sites to know about
If, like Rebecca, you’re looking for an outfit for a special occasion, consider renting it. “The popularity of rental is increasing across all age demographics,” says Julia Smith from Hirestreet.
“It allows women to rent great-quality, flattering items affordably, and try out new brands with no commitment.” The rental sites deliver the item to your home and you try it on (check each site for its policy, but you usually get a full refund if it doesn’t fit). After you’ve hired it for a set number of days, send it back and the company cleans it for you. Most companies offer damage cover for around £5.
- Hurr Collective A peer-to-peer renting site (you borrow items from other women’s wardrobes) that offers high-end and mid-price labels such as Ganni and Rixo, with a growing number of plus-size items.
- My Wardrobe HQ A mix of peer-to-peer (often from celebrities) and brand-to-peer, from Chanel down to more affordable options. It has a pop-up store in Harrods to try on before you rent, and there’s the option to buy items at a reduced rate.
- Rotaro Great for special pieces for occasions such as weddings and big parties, and you may be able to buy your piece if you decide you want to keep it.
- By Rotation An app, rather than a website, this is peer-to-peer with mid-price labels, offering sizes up to UK 20. Tip: Follow the lenders (or “rotators”) on social media and message them to make sure the items will fit you.
- Hirestreet High-street rental site (for instance M&S, French Connection and Warehouse), where the average price per hire is £15.
- John Lewis Fashion Rental Rent items from John Lewis and the brands it stocks (such as LK Bennett and Whistles) for a fraction of the retail price.
