Waterproof mascara is a summer beauty essential second only to SPF, saving us from streaks in the pool and sweaty smudges in the heat. The best waterproof mascaras are truly budge-proof – and therein lies the problem. When a makeup product is guaranteed to stay on your face all day, how on earth can you shift it at bedtime without scouring your skin?
Not all makeup removers are up to the job, and if you pick the wrong one, you’re likely to end the day with sore, red eyes (and waterproof mascara still clinging to your lashes). To find out how to remove waterproof mascara gently, quickly and easily, we’ve got expert advice from the pros who know.
What makes a mascara waterproof?
It’s all in the formula, explains Warren Dowdall, senior pro artist at Bobbi Brown. ‘Waterproof mascaras are formulated with water-repelling ingredients such as silicones, film-forming polymers and waxes to create a water-resistant barrier on the lashes. They keep your mascara on whether you’re in the pool or caught in the rain.’
Which products will struggle to cut through this?
A lot! The truth is, ‘most regular cleansers will struggle to lift the makeup off,’ says celebrity makeup artist Hannah Martin, author of Makeup: A Masterclass In Beauty. Warren agrees: ‘Water-based cleansers fall short here as they aren’t formulated to effectively break down the ingredients in the formula that make it waterproof.’ If you use them, expect scrubbing and unsatisfactory removal.
Is micellar water alone enough?
Although many micellars promise to whisk away eye makeup, Warren doesn’t rate them for shifting waterproof mascara. ‘Regular micellar water won’t cut it to remove waterproof formulas, as it won’t break down the formula easily,’ he says. ‘I would use micellar as a second cleanse to remove any residue after an oil or balm cleanser, which is much more speedy and effective at breaking down waterproof mascara.’
Are wipes an absolute no-no?
No surprises here. Not only are wipes hated by derms for their potential to strip the natural skin barrier, they don’t do a great job at removing tricky waterproof formulas. ‘Rubbing and tugging can irritate the delicate skin around the eye and cause lash breakage, too,’ says Warren. ‘They just don’t do a great job with waterproof mascaras.’ While better than falling asleep with your makeup on at, say, a festival, using wipes is a last resort.
What are the best options for shifting it?
Oil is your best friend for shifting waterproof mascara. ‘Oil-based makeup removers and cleansers are fast and super-effective at removing waterproof formulas because the ingredients that make a formula waterproof are oil-soluble,’ says Warren. ‘Look for bi-phase makeup removers such as Bobbi Brown Instant Long-Wear Makeup Remover.’ This type of product combines oil and water, so as you’d expect, the two layers naturally separate. ‘Remember to “shake it to wake it” before you use it, so the layers mix together. It’s quick and easy – no scrubbing required.’
Hannah agrees that bi-phase formulas cut it for shifting waterproof mascara, as do cleansing oils. ‘I’m obsessed with them for makeup removal,’ she says. ‘However I tend to keep oils for makeup removal, rather than for makeup prep, as I don’t want to add any unwanted oil to the skin before makeup. Oil cleanser is not necessarily the best thing in the morning. A lighter, water-based cleanser will do just fine.’
Hannah’s recommended oil-based cleansers for shifting makeup include Bobbi Brown Soothing Cleansing Oil (which Warren says his clients ‘love’ for its effortless makeup removal), Elemis Superfood Facial Oil, Erborian Centella Cleansing Oil and Lancome Bi-Facil Makeup Remover.
How can I use oil-based cleanser to remove waterproof mascara?
Apply a cleansing oil directly on to dry skin, explains Warren. ‘Just massage it gently over your face and eyes to break down makeup. Splash some water to emulsify the oil and rinse it away. You’re left with a cushioned, glowing complexion and super-soft lashes.’
If you’re using a bi-phase eye makeup remover, use a pad to help you shift the mascara easily. ‘Soak a pad thoroughly in the makeup remover and gently hold it over your closed eye for 15-30 seconds,’ says Warren. ‘This helps dissolve the mascara. Then, gently wipe downwards, not side to side. Using reusable pads is a great eco-friendly option.’ GH swears by Garnier Micellar Reusable Makeup-Remover Eco Pads, which are ultra-soft.
Garnier Micellar Reusable Make-up Remover Eco Pads
Are tubing mascaras waterproof?
Tubing mascaras have a formula made of special polymers that form a wrap around each lash, rather than coating them with pigment (waterproof, or otherwise). Technically, they can’t be described as waterproof because they’re removed using warm water, but you need to use pressure (i.e. squeeze your lashes) at the same time to make the polymer ‘wraps’ slide away. So they won’t come off in streaks in the pool.
‘They’re a great alternative to traditional waterproof mascaras if the oil-based removal process puts you off,’ says Hannah. ‘The tubes of coating only come off when teased with warm water. It makes removal really easy and doesn’t break or pull your lashes.’
Find our guide to the best tubing mascaras here.
